Doom Bar

Doom Bar

Coordinates: 50°33′47″N 4°56′17″W / 50.563°N 4.938°W / 50.563; -4.938

Doom Bar
Image of the Doom Bar at high water
Waves breaking on the Doom Bar at high water
Doom Bar is located in Cornwall
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Doom Bar

Red pog.svg Doom Bar shown within Cornwall
OS grid reference SW918751
List of places: UK • England • Cornwall

The Doom Bar (also known as Dunbar or Dune-bar)[1][2] is a bank of sand at the estuary of the River Camel where it meets the Celtic Sea on Cornwall's north coast. It represents a significant hazard to shipping, and there have been many ships wrecked there through the centuries. It became so notorious that many vessels would risk being wrecked on the coast rather than negotiate the entrance to Padstow.

The sand in the bar was dredged for agricultural purposes not long after its formation, and recent dredging has made it easier to negotiate, removing much of the danger. The Doom Bar is the subject of Cornish folklore and has inspired poetry. The popular bitter by Sharp's Brewery named after it has become their lead beer, selling 45,000 barrels in 2008.

Contents

History

Formation

Sand bars form when surface waves from the ocean are forced against the flow of a river. The different directions of the sediment-filled water creates a process of forced diffusion,[3] scattering the sedimentary deposits at a harbour entrance or river mouth.[4] The Doom Bar was created by the Celtic Sea meeting the River Camel. The name is a corruption of the gaelic word Dunbar which simply means sandbank, and prior to 1900 it was often known as Dunbar Sands. The nearby port of Padstow was prosperous in Saxon times,[5] and although its fortunes had waned by the time of Edward III, it was still able to send "two high-sterned turretted vessels"[5][6] to the Siege of Calais (1346). The Doom Bar appeared some time after this event, during the reign of Henry VIII (1491–1547).[6]

Dredging sand from the Doom Bar

Dredging

The sand found on the bank is mostly made up of seashells, and when analyzed in the 19th century, it was discovered that an average of 60–64% was calcium carbonate (carbonate of lime).[7] A more recent study by J.R. Merefield revealed that the Doom Bar contained significant "skeletal debris of consistent composition" and was primarily made up of "molluscan sand".[8] The high calcium levels in the sand combined with the natural sea salt created a valuable ingredient for farmers, as it allowed the creation of an alkaline fertilizer when mixed with manure.

There is evidence of sand being dredged from the Doom Bar as early 1602.[9] A study published by Sir Henry De la Beche in 1839 showed that around 80 men were permanently employed to dredge the Doom Bar from several barges,[10] removing an estimated 100,000 tons of sand per year.[7] In the 50 years prior to 1836, the Doom Bar lost between 6 and 8 feet (180 and 240 cm) in height due to this dredging. Sir Henry also estimated that the sand from the Doom bar accounted for somewhere between a fifth and a quarter of the sand used for agriculture in Devon and Cornwall.[10]

Shipwrecks

The dangerous Doom Bar at low tide

For centuries, the Doom Bar was regarded as a significant danger to ships—to be approached with caution or end up run aground. In fact, it has accounted for around 600 wrecks since records began about 200 years ago.[11] When sails were the main power source, ships would regularly come round Stepper Point and would then lose their wind, leaving them to drift. To make matters worse a land wind known as "the flaws"[12] blew off shore from behind Stepper Point and pushed the hapless vessels onto the Doom Bar. Even if they were to drop anchor, it would gain no purchase on the sand.[13] If the tide was low, it was only a matter of time before they hit the Doom Bar. One report stated that the Doom Bar was regarded as so dangerous that vessels would risk being wrecked on the coast in a storm, rather than negotiate the entrance to Padstow.[14]

As far back as 1761, there were recommended methods for entering the Camel Estuary during rough weather. The London Chronicle published a letter explaining the difficulty of reaching the harbour whilst North North West winds are blowing.[15] It was, however, possible to enter the harbour if a ship kept close to Stepper Point, with the tide at least half way up. If caught by "the flaws", a rope could be taken to shore, where rings had been attached to the cliff in lieu of an anchor.[citation needed]

Due to this difficult area, help was often given to larger boats coming in, generally by pilots who would wait at Stepper Point when a ship signalled it would be entering. Sometimes salvors would step in and help. Unfortunately, so dangerous was the area, salvors sometimes attempted to overstate the danger in court, so as to extort more money from the owners. In one case, the Towan was not in significant danger and would not have needed salvors, however they interfered and then attempted to claim a large amount against the owner.[16]

The RNLI still have to deal with troubles at the Doom Bar to this day. On 25 June 2007, the Padstow lifeboat and a rescue helicopter rescued two yachts in separate incidents from the area of the Doom Bar.[17]

HMS Whiting

The only recorded naval ship to be wrecked on the Doom Bar was HMS Whiting. She was a 12-gun schooner, originally the USS Arrow until she was captured by the Royal Navy on 8 May 1812 and renamed.[18] On 15 September 1816, she ran aground on the Doom Bar as the tide was ebbing, and the wind was not blowing in a direction that could help. According to the court martial transcripts, an attempt to move her was made at the next high tide, but she was taking on water and it became impossible to save her.[19]

Whiting was abandoned over the next few days, with the crew salvaging whatever they could. The officer in charge, Lieutenant John Jackson, lost one year's seniority for negligence, and three crewmen were given 50 lashes for desertion. She was eventually sold and despite correspondence requesting her move eleven years later, the Navy took no further interest in her.[20] In May 2010, ProMare and the Nautical Archaeology Society, with the help of Padstow Primary School, mounted a search to find HMS Whiting.[21][22]

The old Padstow Lifeboat Station

1911 lifeboat incident

So dangerous was the Doom Bar that lifeboat men sometimes refused to go out. On 12 November 1911, there were two ships wrecked upon the sand bank on one day. The Island Maid, a schooner, had hit the Doom Bar, was in distress and headed towards the harbour. The 1911 lifeboat team mounted a rescue, and the full crew of five were brought safely to the shore.[23] The Island Maid itself went down near the Doom Bar, where it still rests to this day and is often used for diving expeditions.

The Angele, a brigantine, ran aground soon after, but as the tide had turned and the evening was drawing in, the lifeboat crew refused to mount a rescue.[24] The lifeboat coxswain had to raise a new crew from nearby villages, as well as some members of a passing steam liner from Milford Haven in Wales.[25] When there was finally a sufficient crew to man the lifeboat, the rescue was attempted. Unfortunately, upon reaching the Angele, only one survivor was found. The man turned out to be the ship's captain.[23][26]

For their intrepid rescue of that captain, three members of the lifeboat crew, Mr J. Horst, Mr F. Reynolds and Mr. W. Cook were awarded the thanks of the National Lifeboat Institution on 28 February 1912.[25] The coxswain did not fault the crew who refused to go out, explaining that he'd rather they lost heart on the shore than near the boat. Furthermore, the coroner returned a verdict of "Accidental Drowning", attributing no fault to the lifeboat crew.[24]

Antoinette

Of the 600 wrecks recorded on the Doom Bar, the largest was the 1874 barque, Antoinette.[27] On New Years Day 1895, the Antoinette set off from Newport laden with coal, destined for Brazil. She foundered near Lundy Island, losing parts of her masts.[28] She was towed towards a safe port, but broke free and drifted. Eventually, she broke up, with a large portion of her wreck lodging on the Doom Bar. The wreckage was causing a hazard to shipping, so a miner named Pope was called in. He filled the wreck with gelignite and after clearing the area, detonated it. The resulting explosion was so violent that reports claim every window in the nearby harbour of Padstow was blown in and the smoke could be seen three miles away.[28]

Although the Antoinette was the largest wreck on the Doom Bar, all fourteen crew and three stranded pilots were rescued.[27] Over 100 years later, a wreck re-surfaced on the Doom Bar. Although there is some debate as to which ship had appeared, owing to the sheer number of ships that have wrecked on the Doom Bar, the harbour master believes that the wreck is the remainder of the Antoinette.[27] The wreck is currently being dismantled, with the assistance of the Royal Navy Bomb Disposal Unit.

Partial removal

The Doom Bar has moved significantly between 1825 and 2010

One of the first serious proposals to remove the Doom Bar came from the Plymouth and Padstow Railway company, which proposed creating a breakwater on the Doom Bar itself. This would stop the build up of sand in the estuary, thereby increasing the trade that could go through Padstow.[29]

Although the breakwater never came to fruition, a select committee on Harbours for Refuge was set up in 1858. It created Padstow Harbour Commission which was tasked with making Padstow a harbour for large ships no matter what the tide, a feat which would require the removal of the Doom Bar.[30] With the bar there, Padstow could still be used in emergencies, at high water.

The bar could not be dredged without re-silting, and in 1858, there were not enough resources to keep on top of this so other solutions were discussed. One solution was to construct two guidewalls, which would have the effect of sluicing the water across the Doom Bar, thereby removing it. There were concerns that the bar was made up of "hard sand" and therefore would be difficult to remove.[citation needed]

There were also discussions about removing part of Stepper Point to stop the eddying winds, and ensure a true wind into the harbour. By 1859, a small part of Stepper Point had been cut down, which had improved the situation.[14] During the course of the discussions, it was concluded that while the Doom Bar could be removed by a variety of methods, it would not improve the harbour sufficiently, and that a harbour of refuge would be better on the Welsh coast.[30]

During the 20th century, the Doom Bar was regularly dredged to create a much easier entrance to Padstow and to reduce the number of ships wrecked in the area. To this day, the Camel Estuary is regularly dredged by the Padstow Harbour Commission's two dredgers, Sandsnipe and Mannin.[31]

Legend

According to folklore, the Mermaid of Padstow created the Doom Bar as a dying curse, after being shot. As with many legends, there are many different versions of the story and the precise details are unclear. Some versions start by stating that she used to guide ships up the estuary, others that she would visit and spy upon ships in harbour, yet more tell of how she used to sit upon a rock at Hawkers Cove.[citation needed]

One story tells that she met a local man and fell in love with him. When her love became too strong, she tried to lure him beneath the waves and he escaped by shooting her.[32] The ballad, The Mermaid of Padstow,[33] tells the story of Tom Yeo, who shot the mermaid because he thought she was a seal.[34] The ending of the legend is generally similar. With her dying breath, she levelled a curse at Padstow stating that the harbour will be desolate or unsafe.[32] Some variants mention her throwing sand at the harbour. With that, a great storm came, wrecking many boats and creating the great sand bank known as the Doom Bar.[33]


Legacy

Doom Bar tank at Sharp's Brewery

Beer

One of the best known references to the Doom Bar is the bitter beer by Sharp's Brewery. As the flagship beer for the brewery, production has grown from 1,500 barrels in 1994[35] to over 45,000 barrels in 2008.[36] The beer won the Campaign for Real Ale's (CAMRA) Beer of the Year in 2004, and was a finalist in the Great British Beer Festival in 2004 and 2005 before winning Bronze in 2006.[35] It has also won International Beer Challenge Top 50 World Beer (2006).[35] A public house overlooking the sandbank has also taken the name: "Doom Bar" is part of the Atlantic House Hotel in New Polzeath.[37]

Literature

The Doom Bar has been used to elicit feelings of melancholy in a number of poems. For example, Rosamund Watson's Ballad of Pentyre Town[38] talks of giving up everything for love[39] and uses the Doom Bar as imagery. Another, The Coastguard,[40] relates the legend of the Mermaid of Padstow before telling of ships getting caught on a "Sorrowful Bar of Doom".

As far back as Victorian times, The Doom Bar was the subject of a poem by Alice E. Gillington, The Doom-Bar. It relates the story of a girl who gives an engraved ring to her love when he sails across the Doom Bar, breaking her heart. Four years later, when the tide is lower than they had ever seen it, her friends persuade her to come out and walk upon the Doom Bar, where she finds the ring inside a scallop. Realising that he just tossed it aside on the night he left, she resolves not to remain heart-broken and to sail across the Doom Bar herself.[41]

A play entitled The Doom Bar concerning smuggling and wrecking in the area was written in the early 1900s by Arthur Hansen Bush. Although there was no interest in London, it did quite well in America and was scheduled to tour in cities including Chicago and New York. However, there were a series of mishaps, blamed on the legendary wrecker Cruel Coppinger, culminating in a fire at Baltimore, after which the play was considered to be cursed by America's actor's union and was banned.[42]

References

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  31. ^ "Stepper Point Newsletter 12, Summer 2008". www.stepper-point.co.uk. 
  32. ^ a b "Into Cornwall Guide". AWMP Creative Media. http://www.intocornwall.com/engine/azabout.asp?guide=Padstow. Retrieved 2009-02-04. 
  33. ^ a b Brimley Johnson, R (2001). Popular British Ballads: Ancient and Modern. Elibron.com. pp. 24–26. ISBN 1402169493. http://books.google.com/?id=Vh2umj_JdfYC&pg=PR9&dq=Mermaid+of+padstow#v=onepage&q=Mermaid%20of%20padstow&f=false. 
  34. ^ Andrews, Robert (2004). A Rough Guide to England. Rough Guides. p. 523. ISBN 1843532492. http://books.google.com/?id=RadGyH81DyYC&pg=PA523&dq=%22Doom+Bar%22+mermaid#v=onepage&q=%22Doom%20Bar%22%20mermaid&f=false. 
  35. ^ a b c "Hops and Pips review". Hops and Pips. http://www.hopsandpips.com/Sharps-Brewery-Doom-Bar. Retrieved 29 November 2010. 
  36. ^ "The rise and rise of Sharp's Doom Bar". The Publican. http://www.thepublican.com/story.asp?storycode=64672. Retrieved 19 November 2010. 
  37. ^ "British Pub Guide". British Pub Guide. http://www.britishpubguide.com/cgi-bin/pubsearch.cgi?results:Cornwall_&_Scilly_Isles:1585. Retrieved 29 November 2010. 
  38. ^ Rosamund Watson (2009). The Call of the Homeland: A Collection of English Verse. BiblioBazaar, LLC. pp. 156–157. ISBN 1103141716. http://books.google.com/?id=TLiahKPgQu8C&pg=PA156&dq=ballad+of+pentyre+town#v=onepage&q=ballad%20of%20pentyre%20town&f=false. Retrieved 22 November 2010. 
  39. ^ Hughes, Linda (2005). Graham R.: Rosamund Marriott Watson, woman of letters. Ohio University Press. p. 46. ISBN 0821416294. http://books.google.com/?id=Mt4qzPg0DtAC&pg=PA46&dq=%22ballad+of+pentyre+town%22#v=onepage&q=%22ballad%20of%20pentyre%20town%22&f=false. 
  40. ^ Wedmore, Millicent (2008). Chiefly of Heroes. READ BOOKS. ISBN 1409793605. http://books.google.com/?id=cFzOtTJlrWwC&pg=PA15&dq=Mermaid+of+padstow#v=onepage&q=Mermaid%20of%20padstow&f=false. 
  41. ^ Gillington, Alice E.; Stedman, Edmund Clarance (1895). A Victorian Anthology, 1837 – 1895. 
  42. ^ Macklin, John (30 May 1981). "When a ghost took a starring role". Weekend Times: p. 6. http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=aiY-AAAAIBAJ&sjid=sEoMAAAAIBAJ&pg=4568,5910767&dq=doom-bar&hl=en. Retrieved 19 November 2010. 

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