- Alligator Rivers
The Alligator Rivers is the name of a region in the
Arnhem Land region of theNorthern Territory ofAustralia , containing three rivers the East, West and South Alligator River. It is regarded as one of the richest biological regions in Australia with part of the region in theKakadu National Park . It also contains mineral deposits especially uranium with theRanger Uranium Mine located there. The area is also rich inAustralian Aboriginal art with 1500 sites. The Kakadu National Park is one of the few World Heritage sites on the list because of both its natural and human heritage values. They were explored by LieutenantPhillip Parker King in 1820 who named them in the mistaken belief that thecrocodile s in the estuaries werealligator s.Rivers
The East Alligator River is approximately 160 kilometres long. After rising in the northern part of the
Arnhem Land Plateau, it flows with tributary streams towards the northwest through magnificent canyons towards theVan Diemen Gulf which it meets atPoint Farewell .The
South Alligator River is also about 160 kilometres long. It rises north ofMount Stow also on the Arnhem Land plateau. It flows northwesterly in a valley containing a number of disused uranium mines developed between 1955 and 1965. It also finishes in the Van Diemen Gulf of theTimor Sea .The
West Alligator River rises in the lowlands and is 80 kilometres long. TheWildman River also flows in the region. The river system has a number of spectacular waterfalls including theJim Jim Falls onJim Jim Creek and the Twin Falls on Twin Falls Creek.The rivers have created the alluvial plains including the
mangrove swamp in the past 20,000 years.Climate
Like much of northern Australia, the Alligator Rivers region has a
monsoon climate. Thedry season lasts between May and September while thewet season lasts between November and March. April and October are transitional periods between the two months. Annual rainfall at Jabiru is approximately 1540 mm with almost all of it falling during the wet season. During the wet season, the prevailing winds are westerly to north-westerly while they are easterly to south-easterly during the dry season.The three Alligator Rivers are perennial rivers flowing even during the dry season as is the Wildman River. All of the tributaries dry up in places during that period. The land dries out, and the wildlife concentrates around the permanent water sources such as the rivers, springs, waterholes and
billabong s. The duration of the dry period depends on the rainfall during the wet season. In a normal year, the tributaries will start flowing around the middle of December and finish at the end of June, but the flow will start in November and finish in August if the rainfall has been particularly heavy.During the wet season, the
savanna turns green, the wildlife spreads out, the bird life returns and the streams flood into adjacent lands turning them into swamps. The flood plains leave behind silt when they gradually dry up during the wet season.During the wet season, the water has a higher temperature and is relatively low in turbidity. In the dry season, there is an increase in turbidity especially in the shallower water sources.
The Alligator Rivers Region is also subject to cyclones between October and May like other parts of the Australian Indian Southeast region.
Wildlife
The region takes its name from the crocodiles in the lower reaches of the rivers. However, the region features a wide diversity of plant and animal habitats. More than 1500 species of plants have been recorded in a range of tropical habitats including mangrove, monsoon forest, tropical grassland and woodland. There are 46 species of fish in the river system representing approximately a quarter of all known species existing in Australia.
The region also features a wide variety of birdlife with over one in three species of Australia's species having been sighted in the region. In particular, the Alligator Rivers area is known for its rich collection of waterfowl such as magpie geese,
heron s, ibises andspoonbill s.The region also features high populations of the dusky rat and its predator the water python. New vertebrate species are still being discovered in the region notably the Kakadu
dunnart and theKakadu Pebble-mound mouse . The potential for discovery of invertebrate species such as ants is even greater.There is some threat to the ecosystems from introduced flora and fauna. Introduced speeies of plant such as the giant sensitive plant and
Mission grass are threatening habitats. Pest species such as feral water buffalo andCane Toad s are also causing problems.Aboriginal Heritage
Aboriginal people have lived continuously in the Alligator Rivers Region for 50,000 years. The region accordingly has a rich heritage with cave paintings and rock carvings common with over 1500 sites. Many aboriginal artefacts have been found in old camping grounds in the region.
The southern part of Kakadu contain a number of sites relating to Bula a god associated with creation and these sites are considered to be both sacred and dangerous to the aboriginal people because of this association. There is also art relating to contact with Makassan traders and Europeans.
At
Ubirr Rock near Cahill's Crossing on the East Alligator River, there are paintings dating from 20,000 years ago with figures throwing spears and wearing headdresses to first contact with European settlement.The
Gagudju people live in the area between the East and South Alligator Rivers. They share responsibility for Kakadu National Park which lies within their country. Gunbalunya (formerly Oenpelli), a settlement in the area, is run by an Aboriginal council and is an important centre for arts and crafts. The Gagudju language is no longer widely spoken but was common up until the early twentieth century.The
Jawoyn people live in the South Alligator and South Mary regions as well as around Katherine. The Jawoyn negotiated an agreement in 1993 for theCoronation Hill uranium mine where they would allow further exploration of the area in return for employment and training for the Jawoyn and a partnership arrangement.The
Gunwinggu people live between theLiverpool River and the East Alligator River. Traditional beliefs remain important to the Gunwinggu withNgalyod , the Rainbow Serpent playing an important part in their art and traditions. The Gunwinggu have received royalties from theNabarlek Uranium Mine in recent years. The Gunwinggu live in Gunbalunya and Maningrida.European History
Exploration
The explorer
Phillip Parker King was the first English navigator to enter theGulf of Carpentaria . He made a number of explorations in the area between 1818 and 1822 and named the rivers after the crocodiles which he mistook for alligators as his journals note. "On our course up and down the river, we encountered several very large alligators and some were noticed sleeping on the mud. This was the first time we had seen these animals, excepting that atGoulburn Island , and, as they appeared to be very numerous and large, it was not thought safe to stop all night up the River." [Lieutenant Phillip Parker King, "Narrative of a Survey of the intertropical and western coasts of Australia" 1826 entry for 6 May 1818 cited in Webster World 23 October 2005]Ludwig Leichhardt was the first European explorer to visit the area in 1845 on route toPort Essington . Leichhardt followed a creek down from theArnhem Land escarpment before crossing the South and East Alligator Rivers.John McDouall Stuart also visited the area in 1862.ettlement
See
Kakadu National Park for more information on settlementThe settlement of the area by Europeans was slow and sporadic as it was very remote and illnesses were also a problem. The commercial harvesting of water buffalo hides and horns had begun by the 1880s.Paddy Cahill , who came to the area to set up a cattle station was the first buffalo hunter to operate in the region. The buffalo industry lasted for approximately 70 years until the late 1950s until the development of synthetic substitutes. Crocodile hunting was also operating in the area until the hunting of freshwater crocodile was made illegal in 1964 and estuarine crocodiles in 1971.Paddy Cahill had established his cattle station at Oenpelli by 1906 and by 1913 it had become successful. Indeed, Cahill's success at Oenpelli was often cited as an example for others to follow. Other stations were set up but did not always enjoy the same success. Goodparla operated as a cattle and buffalo station and operated with mixed success until the Federal Government acquired the land as part of Kakadu National Park.
Missionaries provided much of the schooling for the aboriginal people for much of the twentieth century. The Kapalga Native Industrial Mission was established in 1899 near the South Alligator River but only lasted four years. The
Church of England Missionary Society established a mission station in 1925 at Oenpelli which lasted for 45 years. In 1975, an aboriginal town council took over responsibility for running the township of Oenpelli.Small scale gold mining started in the region in the 1920s at Imarlkba near Barramundi Creek and at Moline in the 1930s. However, it was the discovery of uranium at the headlands of the South Alligator River in 1953 that started the mining industries. By 1957, there were 13 uranium mines operating employing 150 people including at Coronation Hill. The discovery of large uranium mines at
Jabiluka , Ranger andKoongarra . The Federal Government established theRanger Uranium Environmental Inquiry otherwise known as the Fox Inquiry which recommended the development of the Ranger site, consideration of the other two sites and establishment of Jabiru as a support centre. Royalties are paid to the traditional owners in compensation for the loss of their country.References
* [http://www.deh.gov.au/ssd/about/arr/ Australian Government Department of the Environment and Heritage Introduction to the Alligator Rivers Region]
* [http://www.deh.gov.au/parks/kakadu/activities/ealli.html Kakadu National Park East Alligator River page]
* [http://www.deh.gov.au/ssd/uranium-mining/arr-mines/sav.html Australian Government Department of the Environment and Heritage page on the South Alligator River]
* [http://www.northernterritory.visitorsbureau.com.au/tours/kakadu/accommodated.html Northern Territory Visitors Bureau page on Kakadu and Alligator Rivers tours]
* [http://www.publish.csiro.au/nid/144/paper/WR9930023.htm CSIRO publication on Alligator Rivers birdlife]
* [http://www.worldwildlife.org/wildworld/profiles/terrestrial/aa/aa0701_full.html World Wildlife profile of Arnhem Land tropical savanna]
* [http://www.cultureandrecreation.gov.au/articles/kakadu/ Australian Government culture and recreation site about Kakadu]
* [http://www.deh.gov.au/heritage/worldheritage/sites/kakadu/ Department of the Environment and Heritage article on Kakadu]
* Alex Barlow and Marji Hill editors "Encyclopedia of Australia's Aboriginal People" Macmillan Education Australia 2000 accessed through MacquarieNet OnlineFootnotes
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