Shankill, Dublin

This article is about the area of Dublin. For the area of Belfast, see Shankill, Belfast.

Shankill Seanchill
—  Suburb of Dublin  —
Shankill
Shankill Location in Ireland
Coordinates: 53°13′34″N 6°07′26″W / 53.226°N 6.124°W / 53.226; -6.124Coordinates: 53°13′34″N 6°07′26″W / 53.226°N 6.124°W / 53.226; -6.124
Country	Ireland
Province	Leinster
County	Dun Laoghaire- Rathdown
Dáil Éireann	Dún Laoghaire
Area
– Suburb of Dublin	6.4 km2 (2.5 sq mi)
Elevation	30 m (98 ft)
Population (2006)[1]
– Urban	13,258
Postal district(s)	County Dublin
Dialing code	01, +353 1
Irish Grid Reference	O249220

Shankill (Irish: Seanchill, meaning "Old Church") is a suburb in the South-East of Dublin located in Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown County, Ireland. It has a population of 13,242 (2006 census).

History

Bilingual welcome boulder in English and Irish.

Name

The name Shankill is believed to derive from either the Irish Sean Chill, meaning Old Church or from the Irish Sean Choill, meaning Old Wood.

Dark Ages

Shankill features a number of antiquities, including ráths and cromlechs. Around 1230, there were forests that were cleared under the orders of the then owner of Shankill, Archbishop Luke. Courts for serious crimes in the style of assizes were conducted at Shankill during this period. To keep the native Gaelic Irish out fortified gates protected parts of the townland.

The manor of Shankill was overrun by the Irish and completely destroyed a century later. In response to these incursions, a large garrison was re-instated. The Irish were restrained from entering and the land was eventually re-let as grazing land.

Middle Ages

The Lawless family feature prominently in the history of Shankill. In 1408, family members had control of the seigniory of Shanganagh. Several Lawlesses became residents of Shankill by the 1480s.

Several castles which still stand today, Shankill Castle and Shanganagh Castle, as well as a strong house, called Puck's Castle, were built between 1400 and 1600. The Walsh family comes to prominence in the 16th century, building defensive structures throughout Shankill.

From 1640 onwards, the Irish were subdued in numerous battles, which led to greater agricultural use of the lands and consequent prosperity. Shankill was taken into the Rathmichael parish, becoming more populous.

The Walshes quit the lands of Shankill, primarily due to the Act of Commonwealth that redistributed landowners and tenancies. After this, the Lawless families regained possession for the third time of all of Shankill. The last Lawless died in 1795, whereupon the lands became the possessions of the third Sir William Domvile, resident of nearby Loughlinstown House. The Domvile family was granted the lands surrounding Loughlinstown under the Restoration.

19th century

Shankill and Rathmichael were at that time the property of Sir Charles Compton William Domvile (1822–1884). Domvile was known as an uncompromising and ruthless property owner, and sought to change the usage of land from the smallholdings that existed at the time of his inheritance of the estate.

Domvile intended to build grand Georgian style housing developments, squares and streets, to gentrify the area, making it attractive for wealthy Dublin based professionals to live. At this time, Shankill was a rural village.

During Domvile’s time new roads and streets were laid out, as well as water mains which feed a relief tank from Vartry Reservoir, continuing on to Stillorgan reservoir.

However, Domvile was an impetuous man, and acted unreasonably with his tenants and prospective buyers of estates on his holdings. His personal debts mounted as a result of his financing two large estates at Shankill and Santry, ultimately resulting in his bankruptcy.

The net outcome of Domvile’s actions was to halve the population of Shankill and Rathmichael during the 1860s. He evicted over 100 tenants, during a period of grinding poverty, and many were forced to re-negotiate their tenancies at usurious rates. Many of the evicted ended up in the local workhouse, the Rathdown Work Union, which is now the site of Loughlinstown Hospital.

A landowner with holdings adjacent to the Shankill townland, Benjamin Tilly, granted quarter-acre holdings to several of the evicted tenants. Tilly’s land straddled the townland border into Shanganagh, and the new holdings along the Shanganagh Road became known as Tillystown. In 1871, there were over 60 houses, and at the turn of the century, this village became known as Shankill proper.

In 1911, a large tract of land to the west of Shankill, known as New Vale, was developed as labourers' cottages.

20th, 21st centuries

Shankill initially comprised large agricultural tracts broken into smallholdings for tenant farmers, and larger, grander estates with fine country houses, many which still exist today. Large housing estates have been built on many of these estates, of varying size and quality. Recently, tracts of land such as the caravan park and young offenders prison have been sold to developers, who have built higher density housing than the larger plot housing estates constructed in the 1970s.

There are a large number of local authority housing developments, notably Rathsallagh and Shanganagh Cliffs estates, located near Shankill DART station, stretching to the coastline. Smaller developments are also found on Quinn's Road.

In recent times, several property developers have purchased adjacent large houses with the intention of developing apartment complexes.

Geography

The townland of Shankill was originally located on lands further northwest at Puck’s Castle. Today, the area of Shankill is sometimes taken to include both Shankill proper and Rathmichael^{[citation needed]} (though historically Shankill was absorbed into Rathmichael parish, not vice versa), an area of around 6.5 square kilometres (1,600 acres).

The townlands are bordered roughly by the points between Carrickgollogan hill (278m) to the west, the Ballycorus Leadmines to the northwest, Loughlinstown hospital to the north, stretching to the coast from Rathsallagh River to the southern boundary of Tyrell’s land.

The modern Shankill centre consists primarily of a single Main street, with many amenities such as shops, a pub, cafe, restaurants, and other services. This is located on the road between Shankill church (St. Anne's) and Bray.

To the north of modern Shankill is Killiney, with its prominent hill, to the south, the large town of Bray, County Wicklow.

Local antiquities and features

Puck's Castle.

Ballycorus Chimney.

Shanganagh Castle (18th century).

St. James's Church, Crinken (1840).

There are several antiquities in the area, including ruined churches and standing stones. The ruins of several castles and defensive type structures remain; including Puck's Castle, Shankill Castle, Shanganagh Castle and a Martello Tower.

Some houses of architectural note include Clontra, a coastal Gothic mansion, Crinken Castle House, Crinken, and Shanganagh House, an imposing mansion now surrounded by housing estates built during the 1960s. Clontra was built for Dublin barrister James Anthony Lawson QC (later Attorney General of Ireland, Judge of the High Court and Privy Councillor) and designed by eminent 19th century architects Sir Thomas Newenham Deane and Benjamin Woodward in their trademark Italian medieval style. They are better known for their work on the Kildare Street Club and the museum building at Trinity College, Dublin. The local library is itself of note, formerly a courthouse built in an old Victorian style of granite and mock Tudor features. There are also some follys such as a mock round tower built of red brick in the Castle Farm Farmyard.

Traces of South Dublin's industrial heritage remain, such as the lead mine chimney. Other features of note include the 'upside down' houses by the Harcourt Street railway line bridge, which was the site of the original post office, and has its guest rooms downstairs, and its kitchen and living room upstairs. Shankill was accessible via the original Kingstown-Bray train line, which is now five metres from the sea in some places. A coastal wall was built from Killiney to Bray to try to stop the erosion; traces of this can still be seen along the beach. The medieval village of Longnon was sited some 200 yards (180 m) east of Quinn’s Road beach, but was completely obliterated by coastal erosion.

Ballycorus Leadmines

Main article: Ballycorus Leadmines

Site of a lead ore smelter, a mile long stone flue and a granite chimney on Carrickgollogan hill, which is visible from much of southeast Dublin.^[2]

Dorney Court

Originally called Clare Mount, built c. 1832, this fine Victorian house was demolished in 1984. Now the site of Shankill Garda Station. The grounds still contain a few Sequoia and Scots Pine trees following the felling of many of them in 1984.

Carnegie Library

Tudor-style library, architect R. M. Butler, 1912.^[3]

Clonasleigh

Clonasleigh, a house replaced by the Shankill Shopping Centre (now mostly closed), was lived in by Frederick W. Meredith, once President of the Law Society, in the early 1900's. The house name has been retained locally in Clonasleigh, a road with 16 houses, off Corbawn Lane, located close to the original house.

Clontra

Gothic mansion designed by Deane and Woodward, 1860, interior murals by John Hungerford Pollen. On 15 acres (61,000 m²) of parkland by the coast, adjacent to Corbawn Wood estate.^[4]

Ferndale House

Large estate on several acres, seat of David Plunket, 1st Baron Rathmore.

Mullinastill House

Former mill house, listed structure, set for several film scenes.

Old Harcourt Street line

Former railroad running from Dublin to Bray; closed in 1958.

Defunct train line

A spur at Tyrell’s land to the main Dublin-Bray line. Closed in 1915.

Puck’s Castle

The "castle,” actually a fortified house, was built in the late 16th century. It provided a refuge in 1690 for James II and his army fleeing the Battle of the Boyne. One explanation for its name is that a ghost or puca inhabited the castle.^[5]

Rosedale and Locksley

Twin Victorian country houses, built by Guinness master brewer Perry in the early 1860s.

Shanganagh Castle

Located near Mill Lane, built in 1408 by the Lawless family and inhabited by their descendants until 1763, the castle was left in ruins by a fire in 1783.

During the late 18th century, a mansion of the same name was rebuilt on extensive lands at the border of Shankill with County Wicklow. It was used as an open prison for juveniles between 1969 and 2002.^[6][7]

Shanganagh House

Later called Shanganagh Park, this Georgian-era mansion was built c. 1823 for William Hopper. Later residents included the Darcy brewing family and racehorse breeder Frank Field. It was compulsorily purchased by Dublin Co. Council in 1970 and it now serves as a community centre and is surrounded by late 1970s council houses.^[8]

Shankill Castle

Built by Archbishop Henry de Loundres in 1229; site of the ancient Shankill church. It is one of the oldest surviving structures in the area.^[9][10]

Rathmichael Church

Main article: Rathmichael

Commissioned by Charles Domvile in 1860, designed by Benjamin Woodward, in the Hiberno-Romanesque style. The Domviles had their own high-backed chairs, behind red velvet curtains.

Gallery

• 

  Shanganagh House.

• 

  Crinken.

• 

  The old Shankill station house, hidden behind Shankill Business Centre.

Amenities

Sporting options in the area include Three soccer teams, Shankill FC, which caters for schoolboy and schoolgirl football, Valeview Shankill fc who cater for senior football and RSFC who cater for junior football. There is also a Bowling Club with an all-weather surface.

Shankill Tennis Club, which opened a new €940,000 clubhouse during 2007, is located at the bottom of Quinn's Road.

The trailhead of the Dublin Mountains Way, a long distance walking route (43km trail) across the Dublin Mountains between Shankill in the east and Tallaght in the west begins in front of Brady's pub on the Main Street.

There is one pub-restaurant complex in Shankill; Brady's of Shankill, located on the Main Street. Brady's comprises a large lounge and a public bar (Mickey Byrne's). Above the pub is a Chinese restaurant, Grace's Garden. Adjacent to Brady's is Cafe Solo, a small cafe/eaterie. Shankill is also served by two grocery and convenience stores. The local credit union has a substantial office on the main street. There is also a public library, and until recently, Shankill featured one of Dublin's few remaining campgrounds, the site of which has since been developed into an apartment complex.

Shankill recently won the national 'Best Urban Village Award' and two other awards^[11] in the Tidy Towns Competition. Efforts are ongoing by a very active committee and residents alike, to improve the appearance and quality of the local environment.

Education

Shankill has three primary schools: Saint Anne's National School and Scoil Mhuire (both Roman Catholic), and Rathmichael Parish School (Church of Ireland).

Religion

Shankll has a Roman Catholic church (St Anne's); and two Church of Ireland (Anglican) churches at opposite ends of the area, Crinken (to the South), and Rathmichael (to the West).

Transport

Dublin Bus routes 7b, 45, and 145 connect the area with the city centre, the 84 connects the area to UCD Campus, and the 45A with Dun Laoghaire.

The Aircoach service to Dublin Airport from Greystones calls at Mickey Byrne's Bar (aka Brady's) in Shankill, en route to the airport.

The other Shankill

Like its namesake, the Shankill district of Belfast, Dublin's Shankill also has its own Falls Road. Occasionally the primary schools and community groups in both Shankills hold football or other sporting events to promote better North-South relationships. Shankill (Co. Dublin) native Charlie Martin received an honorary MBE in April 2006 for his work in this field.

People

• Pádraig Harrington, Three time major winner.
• Eamon Gilmore Leader of the Irish Labour Party and Tánaiste (2011).
• Des Cahill, RTÉ sports commentator and pundit.
• George Morrison, director of Mise Éire and other documentaries.
• Kevin Burns, RTÉ producer.
• Anthony Murnane, RTÉ Deputy Foreign Editor

Transport

There is a DART Dublin Area Rapid Transit station located in Shankill; it is the third-last stop on the south side of the line. The old Harcourt Street railway line also connected close to Shankill centre. The Dublin Transportation Office's 'Platform for Change' strategy envisaged reopening this as a metro connection, connecting with the existing Luas green line. However, the recently announced Luas line B2 extension will instead now run parallel to the M11, not through Shankill on the old railway alignment. The nearest Luas stop is the terminus at Bride's Glen, Loughlinstown.

The N11 national route used to run through the Shankill, until the M11 bypass was built nearby.

References

1. ^ "Census 2006 – Volume 1 – Population Classified by Area" (PDF). Central Statistics Office Census 2006 Reports. Central Statistics Office Ireland. April 2007. http://www.cso.ie/census/documents/census2006_volume_1_pop_classified_by_area.pdf. Retrieved 2011-06-19.  The figure represents the sum of the populations of the Shankill-Rathmichael, Shankill-Rathsallagh and Shankill-Shanganagh electoral districts.
2. ^ The Mining Company of Ireland Ltd., short history of mining operations at Ballycorus
3. ^ An Taisce catalogue of photographs of Irish Carnegie Libraries
4. ^ Clontra, National Inventory of Architectural Heritage
5. ^ Pucks Castle, brief history & photos
6. ^ Shanganagh Castle (18th century), brief history, old drawing & photo
7. ^ Shanganagh Castle (18th century), National Inventory of Architectural Heritage
8. ^ Shanganagh House, National Inventory of Architectural Heritage
9. ^ Shankill Castle, National Inventory of Architectural Heritage
10. ^ Shankill Castle, brief history
11. ^ Shankill Tidy Towns 2007 awards

External links

• Online Business and Traders Directory
• Dún Laoghaire-Rathdown County Council
• Shankill Tennis Club
• Shankill weather
• Luas map