Alexander Huber

Alexander Huber (born 1968 in Trostberg, Bavaria), is a German physicist, climber and mountaineer. He lives in Traunstein.

When they were still young Alexander Huber and his brother Thomas Huber were taken into the mountains by their father, Thomas Huber, himself a noted climber known for early fast ascents of now classic climbs. Together with his brother Thomas, he became interested in extreme alpine climbing.

Since 1992 Alexander Huber has been a state-certified mountain and skiing guide. He first studied physics, then became a full-time professional mountaineer in 1997 and is now one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers. While being an all-round climber, Alexander is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls.

Notable Achievements:
* 1992 First Ascent of "Om" (5.14d/9a, the second 9a in the world, after "Action Directe"), Germany
* 1994 First Ascent of "Weisse Rose" (5.14d/9a), Austria
* 1995 First Redpoint Ascent of the "Salathé Wall" (5.13b), El Capitan,Yosemite Valley
* 1996 "Open Air" FA (5.14d/9a), Austria
* 1997 "Tsering Mosong", West Face of Latok II, 7108m, Karakoram, "El Cap on top of Denali" (AAJ): FA with Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch [cite book | last = Huber | first = Alex | authorlink = | coauthors = Thomas Huber
title = The American Alpine Journal 1988
publisher = American Alpine Club | date = 1988 | location = New York, NY, USA
pages = 34-42 | url = | doi = | id = | isbn = 0-930410-78-5 ]
* 1998 Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya, Nepal
* 1998 First Ascent of "El Nino" (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
* 1998 First Ascent of "Free Rider" (5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite
* 2000 First Ascent of "Golden Gate" (5.13a), El Capitan, Yosemite
* 2001 First Ascent of "Bellavista", (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy
* 2001 First Ascent of "El Corazon", (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
* 2002 Free Solo Ascent of the "Direttissima" (500m, 5.12a) of Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy
* 2002 Cerro Torre, Cerro Standhardt and Fitz Roy in Patagonia
* 2003 First Redpoint Ascent of "Free Zodiac" (5.13d), El Capitan, Yosemite
* 2004 Free Solo Ascent of the "Kommunist" (5.14a), Austria
* 2004 Speed Record on the "Zodiac", El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 1:51:34
* 2005 First Redpoint Ascent of "Voie Petite" (5.13d/8b) on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
* 2006 First Ascent of "Golden Eagle" (5.11/A1), Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
* 2006 Free Solo Ascent of the South Face (5.11a) of "Dent du Géant" (4013m), Mont Blanc
* 2007 First Ascent of "Pan Aroma" (5.14b/8c), Cima Ovest, Dolomites, Italy
* 2007 Speed Record on the "Nose", El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 2:45:45

Reinhold Messner about Huber: "Alexander Huber, currently the best of all rock climbers, has free soloed the Zinnen-Direttissima, with only a chalk bag and rock shoes on his feet. 500 meters of absolute exposure, without protection and possibility of return, a brilliant deed, which can hardly be surpassed in elegance. With this, Huber shows that he isn't a gambler, but a great master. Safety always only comes from skill."

Literature

*Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, 2000
*Alexander Huber: Yosemite. Ottobrunn : Bergverlag Rother, 2002
*Alexander Huber und Willi Schwenkmeier: Drei Zinnen. Bergverlag Rother, 2003

References

External links

*http://www.huberbuam.de
*http://www.bergfieber.de/berge/bergsteiger/bios/huberalex.htm
*http://www.rother.de/autoren/Huber_Alexander
*http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,1,0,1,climbers.html
*http://euroclimbing.com/?p=459 - Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest