Castleblayney

Castleblayney (from the 1950s given the name of "Baile na Lorgan" in Irish, although previously known as "Caislean Mathghamhna"), often spelled Castleblaney, is a town in County Monaghan: one of three Ulster counties – of the nine constituting the historic province – which are situated in the Republic of Ireland. County Monaghan, together with County Cavan, forms an unofficial 'region' within the Province of Ulster called "South Ulster".

Often contracted in popular usage to 'Blayney', it is a former market town and, since the partition of Ireland in 1922, a Border town. The town itself currently has a population of around 3,000, with another 8,000 living in its suburban and rural environs. Castleblayney lies near the border with County Armagh, Northern Ireland, on the N2 National Primary Route from Dublin to Derry and Letterkenny.

The nearest neighbouring towns are:
*Keady, Newtownhamilton, and Crossmaglen in County Armagh;
*Carrickmacross and Ballybay in County Monaghan; and
*Cootehill and Shercock in County Cavan.

The town, in the heart of typical South Ulster drumlin and lake countryside, lies above the western shore of Lough Muckno, an 'area of primary amenity value' and the largest lake in County Monaghan. Out of it, the River Fane flows eastwards to the Irish Sea at Dundalk in County Louth. As the Irish Gaelic name of the lake might suggest - 'the place where pigs swim' - the area is associated with the 'Black Pig's Dyke' (also known locally in parts of Counties Cavan and Monaghan as 'the Worm Ditch'), an ancient Iron Age boundary of Ulster. A few miles to the north-east is the highest elevation in County Monaghan, 'Mullyash', altitude 317 m (1034 ft), designated as an 'area of secondary amenity value'. It was associated with folk festivals till modern times that were often disapproved of by the churches. Since the 17th century, markets and fair days were held in the town, but these faded away in recent decades. Beyond the town, there are a variety of 'proposed natural heritage sites' or locations.

History

The town of Castleblayney originated in the aftermath of the Tudor conquest of Gaelic Ulster, following the Nine Years' War, 1583-1601. Forfeited secular lands in the area previously owned by the MacMahon chieftains were granted by the Crown in 1611 to Sir Edward Blayney from Montgomeryshire in Wales, who became Baron of Monaghan and later, the first Lord Blayney. He had been in the service of Queen Elizabeth I. Appropriated church land (or 'termon') of Muckno Friary (Augustinians|Augustinian) on the northeastern side of the lake in the Churchill area (Mullandoy) had already been granted to him in 1606/7.

The Legend Ailbhe, originally came from Castleblayney. Ailbhe was well known for the craic and the jameson...Long Live "The Ailbhe".

Muckno is the also the name given to the Roman Catholic parish (St. Mary's, Castleblayney and St Patrick's, Oram, just three miles north east of the town) and Church of Ireland parish (St Maeldoid's), of the diocese of Clogher. These cover most of the areas around the lough and town. Strategically placed at junctions of many routes from all directions, the nucleus of the town developed around the site of the original Blayney Castle, above the western shore overlooking the lough. The old redundant monastic and parish church site fell into disrepair and largely disappeared, though it was used as a graveyard that has seen some recent restoration. During the first hundred years after the establishment of Castleblayney, the 'town' was little more than a vulnerable, besieged fortification due to the widespread instability, insurgency and wars throughout Britain and Ireland for much of the 17th century. Consequently, 'civility' on anyone's terms did not develop. The piecemeal settlement of English and even some French Huguenot incomers, all of the Protestant faith in contrast to the continuing Catholicism of most of the native population, was followed by a significant influx of largely Ulster-Scots settlers after 1690 when greater security prevailed. This led to the formation of Presbyterian 'meeting-houses' and congregations dissenting from the established state Church of Ireland just outside the original town (1717), originally at Drumillard and then relocating to 'McPhearson's Brae' (1784) past Lakeview as now, two seceding congregations at Frankford (1750) and Garmony's Grove (1818), and finally another mainstream church at Broomfield (1841) (now 'An Eaglais' Heritage Centre and restaurant); in addition, a commercial school and classical academy or grammar school run by a minister was set up supplementing local 'hedge schools'. By the 1830s, there were in the area 23 public, private, or parochial schools catering for all denominations.

Population displacement and settlement along with gradual urban and commercial development, the crossroads location, the anglicizing National Schools system, the Famine as well as the incorporation of the town into the rail network (1849), all helped hasten the decline of the vernacular Irish Gaelic spoken in the area. However, in rural districts to the south and south-east of the town - particularly Lisdoonan and the barony of Farney as well as parts of neighbouring south Armagh, the language was quite widely spoken among country people and written by local scribes until the mid-19th century. Some naturally native speakers survived into the 20th century. Not completely died out is old Irish music and songs that have been recovered in recent times.

In 1762, a demonstration occurred in the town accompanied by a threatening military presence. This was connected with the 'Oakboys' movement that was active in the county. The protest was about compulsory work to repair public roads as well as private roads and avenues in gentry demesnes that was exacted from agricultural labourers for no wages.

The modern planned town, reminiscent of Plantation towns with its characteristic very wide main street, and with long, narrow individual gardens to the rear and out of sight, dates from ca. 1830. It was laid out under the direction of the 11th Lord Blayney, Andrew Thomas, who governed the Blayney estates from 1784 until his death in 1832. Educated in France and Germany, Andrew Blayney is famous for his distinguished military career, eventually becoming Colonel, having served the Crown in the West Indies, South America, southern Africa, the Napoleonic Wars as commander of the 89th Foot, popularly known as 'Blayney's Bloodhounds'. He was very active in the suppression of the revolt of the United Irishmen in 1798. Relatively enlightened, socially progressive, and professedly committed to the welfare and improvement of the people and county of Monaghan, he also provided for the erection in Castleblayney of the current church buildings of the Roman Catholic, Episcopalian and Presbyterian churches, being tolerant in religion if traditionalist in politics and strongly supportive of Empire and the Anglo-Irish ascendancy. He also had a Market House built, on to which the Courthouse was later superimposed in the quasi-centre of the town. It and the former Alms Houses (1876), which were interdenominationally managed, are the only civic buildings of any architectural merit in the town. As for older domestic dwellings, of fine design and quality (apart from modern PVC windows) is a row of formerly Muckno Estate workers' cottages in Church St, possibly of Continental style; some more substantial bourgeois houses in the 'Square' close to the Castle gates have Georgian echoes. The 'Courthouse' will soon undergo major refurbishment and restoration. There are around the town about 40 structures and buildings designated as being of 'regional or local importance'.

In the early 1840s, what is now St Mary's Hospital was erected as a Workhouse for the very poor. In the course of the year 1849 following the dire effects of the Famine, it catered for up to 2000 inmates in an extreme state of destitution and misery - its own graveyard is nearby. In later times, the Workhouse became a 'County Home' for the infirm.

In 1853, Cadwaller Blayney, the 12th Lord and sometime MP for Monaghan in the United Kingdom Parliament, sold the Castle and estate to Henry Thomas Hope from Deepdene in Surrey, a former MP at Westminster. Thereafter the Castle was renamed 'Hope Castle', as it still called. Hope gave the Georgian Castle with its splendid prospect a Victorian makeover that the present prettified building retains, externally at least. 'Castle' has always been a misnomer, since it was more of a 'Big House', mansion or manor house than a castle. After his death in 1862, Hope's wife, Anne, inherited the estate. Soon after 1887, the Castle and demesne fell to the next heir, a grandson of Hope: Henry Francis Hope Pelham-Clinton-Hope, otherwise known as 'Lord Francis Hope', famous for having sold the renowned family heirloom, the 'Hope Diamond'. After 1916, he no longer resided in the Castle nor in Ireland. On becoming the Duke of Newcastle in 1928, he later sold off both the Castle and the estate which became broken up and used in part for local political patronage. During the 'Emergency' (World War II), the old woods on the Black Island in Lough Muckno were comprehensively despoiled by the Irish Free State government, so that for several decades the Island was a wilderness and environmental eyesore. The woods were only reinstated in recent times as a valuable amenity.

In 1919-1921, during the Anglo-Irish military hostilities over independence, the Castle was used as a barracks by the British Army. Some time afterwards it functioned as a hospital, and from 1943 to 1974, it was occupied by Franciscan nuns who also managed an adjacent guest house. After some years of neglect, the Castle has been used for catering and hotel purposes set in what is now a Leisure Park with golf course, though the location and lough suffer from being in management and conservation limbo, despite its amenity status. The current Castleblayney Golf Club adopted the Blayney family coat of arms, with its three nags' heads.

Rail services at the town ceased on New Year's Day, 1960. Recent decades have seen some incomers from Eastern Europe and beyond settling permanently or temporarily arising out of European Union obligations. And with increasing all-Ireland harmony, there is increasing natural 'cross-border' mobility that is diminishing the old and sterile 'border town' atmosphere and mentality.

Council

The modern town of Castleblayney is administered by a Town Council consisting of 9 elected members, together with appointed officials. Other administrative functions in the area are carried out by Monaghan County Council. The Castleblayney Area has 5 members on Monaghan County Council. This number of County Councillors is set to reduce to 4 from June 2009

Facilities

*Castleblayney has a new modern Theatre & Community Resource Centre, called Iontas, which was officially opened by the President of Ireland in December 2005.
*At present, two shopping centres are being built in the town and are due to open later in 2007.
*An 18 hole championship golf course is currently under construction at Concra, just outside the town.

Transport

*A new €120m By-Pass from Castleblayney to Clontibret opened on the 5 November 2007. It links Castleblayney directly to the M1 Motorway and to Dublin. The bypass consists of 16 kilometres of 2+1 carriageway.
*The town is served by Bus Éireann, Ulsterbus and several private coach companies.
*Castleblayney is no longer served by railway. Castleblayney railway station opened on 15 February 1849, closed to passengers on 14 October 1957, and finally closed altogether on 1 January 1960. [cite web | title=Castleblayney station | work=Railscot - Irish Railways | url=http://www.railscot.co.uk/Ireland/Irish_railways.pdf | accessdate=2007-09-16]

People

*"Lord Andrew Blayney" (see above)
*"General Eoin O'Duffy" (1892-1944). Born at Caraghdoo, Laragh, near Lough Egish, south of Castleblayney; ex-IRA leader and controversial politician in the Irish Free State with links to Franco's Spain, Mussolini's Italy, and Hitler's Germany. Aggressively nationalist in politics and cultural attitude, he founded the ultra-right wing 'Blueshirts'. Marginalized, he soon faded from local historical memory, though the media revelation in recent times of his sexual orientation revived further controversy surrounding his name.
*"Clare Sheridan" (1885-1970). Renowned sculptress of famous people including Lenin, Trotsky, Churchill and Gandhi, journalist, traveller, romantic adventurer and celebrity. Daughter of an English aristocrat and American mother; had Anglo-Scots-Irish connections, related to the Leslies of Glaslough, Co. Monaghan; first cousin of Sir Winston Churchill; a late convert to Roman Catholicism, from 1960 she resided in retirement for some years at the guest house of the Franciscan Convent in Hope Castle.
*"Thomas Hughes (VC)" (1885-1942). Born at Castlebayney, private in the British Army with the Connaught Rangers in the First World War; awarded the Victoria Cross for gallantry; lived later in a small hill-farm (bought for him by public subscription) in Aghnafarcon, between Broomfield and Lough Egish. Had little or no local recognition after 1922 until recently.
*"Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught". A son of Queen Victoria, Commander-in-Chief of the British Army in Ireland 1900-1904, when he also rented Hope Castle in Castleblayney as a residence outside Dublin.
*"Peadar Livingstone" (1932-1987). Born in Castleblayney, teacher, historian and latterly Catholic priest of Broomfield parish (Castleblayney district). Graduate in history from Queen's University Belfast, his scholarly "Monaghan Story" (1980) is monumental in proportions and is an invaluable, reliable work of reference. His book is preeminently characterized by a highly informed, inclusive approach to the history of Monaghan communities of all political hues and religious persuasions - partly explicable by his own 'mixed' family background.
*"Samuel Hemphill" (died 1741). In a pioneer and frontier context, the first Presbyterian minister of Castleblayney (1718). Originating in either Cavan or Monaghan, he was a graduate of Glasgow University. He made some literary forays into contemporary doctrinal disputes. A traditionalist, he opposed liberal theological views held by Presbyterians of the 'Belfast Society'. Financially often in straits, he seems to have been arrested by the Sheriff of Monaghan, possibly for debt, and then bought out by the minister of Creggan (Freeduff) for £50, twice Hemphill's annual salary.
*"John J. Clarke" (1879-1961). Highly rated amateur photographer, he was a medical doctor in Castleblayney, like his father before him. Studied medicine in Dublin at the then Royal University of Ireland from 1897-1904. His fame rests on photographs of people and backgrounds of great historical value that he took around central Dublin during that Edwardian era (the Dublin of James Joyce) - a townscape that has largely vanished apart from prestige buildings. At that time, photography was still at the early stages of development. The National Photographic Archive of the National Library of Ireland holds a 'Clarke Collection' of ca. 200 photographs of not only old Dublin, but other areas of Ireland including some of Castleblayney. Many are viewable on-line: http://hip.nli.ie/#focus (click 'photographs', then insert 'clarke, j.j.')
*"Tony Loughman" who died in his native Castleblayney on the 1st of June 2007, was a central player in the Irish country music scene for many years. He was aged 64 and had been coping with an illness for some time. He was predeceased by his daughter Edel last year. During the late 1970s and well into the ‘80s, Tony directed the hugely successful Top Rank organisation that was the biggest management operation in country music on the island of Ireland in those years. Several of the biggest names in the business operated out of the Top Rank stable including Big Tom, Philomena Begley, Susan McCann, Paddy Cole, Hugo Duncan Paddy Cole Superstars Eileen King's Country Gifts Patrice & Stage Five Philomena Begley & her Ramblin' Men Susan McCann & the Storytellers Shelly & The Big Valley* Anne, Shelly & The Marines* Big Ivan & The New County Sharon & Green Forest Big tom and a host of others. The company also ran a chain of ballrooms and venues. The furthest flung venue from Castleblayney was the Macra Hall in Abbeyleix. Tony’s company had its own recording studio in Castleblayney as well as its own weekly publication, Entertainment News, which had a nationwide distribution bringing readers up to date with all the happenings on the country music circuit. I had the privilege of editing the Entertainment News magazine for a time and lived in Castleblayney for some months. In many ways, the Loughman enterprise was an empire within the structures of the country music scene here in Ireland. Tony started out as a quarryman and often said that it gave him a great grounding in understanding the ordinary people. He later served for a term or two as a member of Castleblayney UDC. A strong footballer, he won eleven Monaghan senior championship medals with Castleblayney Faughs and was a big supporter of the club all his life. As a teenager, he captained Monaghan to an Ulster minor final win while he also played for the Monaghan senior team for a number of years during the 1960s. Immersed in the culture of the GAA, his son Declan was a member of the Monaghan senior team for several seasons. But outside his native county, he was mainly associated with the world of country music and the promotion of shows. He was a regular visitor to Mayo and the last time I met Tony was in the TF in Castlebar last year. In recent times, he had being doing a lot of promotion work for Deirdre Reilly, the Nashville-based singer whose dad is from Belmullet. Fr Brian D’Arcy was the chief celebrant at his Requiem Mass in St Mary’s Church, Castleblayney and among the overflow congregation were many well-known people from the showbiz and circuit including Big Tom, Phil Begley, Derek Davis (RTÉ), Susan McCann, Paddy Cole and many more.
*James McMahon Graham (1852-1945), was born in Casteblayney, and after emigration to the USA he became an attorney in Illinois. From 1909-1915, he was a Democratic Congressman in the House of Representatives. He published some works on Catholic religious matters.
*Hugh Keenan (ca. 1796-1882), was born in Castleblayney, emigrating to Pittsburgh, PA. He became a lawyer, and served as US Consul in Dublin 1847-50, and later in Cork, 1854-59. He is buried in the town of his birth.

References

*"Borderlands: Essays on the History of the Ulster-Leinster Border", ed. by Raymond Gillespie and Harold O'Sullivan (Belfast, 1989).
*Peter Collins & A.P.W. Malcomson, "The Blayney of Castleblayney Papers" in The Public Record Office of Northern Ireland. For outline of holdings with survey of family and estate history, see Website: http://www.proni.gov.uk/records/private/blayney.htm#top (1998).
*Patrick J. Duffy, "Landscapes of South Ulster—A Parish Atlas of the Diocese of Clogher" (Belfast, 1993).
*Charles Laverty, 'The old name of Castleblayney', in: "County Louth Archaeological and Historical Journal", vol. I/4 (1907), 29-33.
*Samuel Lewis, "A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland" (London, 1837. 1842).
*Peadar Livingstone, "The Monaghan Story", Clogher Historical Society (Enniskillen, 1980)
*"Oxford Dictionary of National Biography" (on Andrew Blayney, Clare Sheridan, Eoin O'Duffy, and Samuel Hemphill).
*"Photographic Memories: a pictorial history of Castleblayney", Castleblayney Heritage Group Millennium Publication (Castleblayney, 1999).
*Evelyn P. Shirley, "The History of the County of Monaghan" (London 1869). Reprint 1988.

Twinning

Castleblayney is twinned with the town of Nogent-sur-Vernisson in the Loiret Department of France.

Music

Castleblayney is steeped in a strong tradition of music, with people like "Big Tom and The Mainliners", Maurice Lynch, Patsy McDermott, Paddy Cole, Speedking,Ben Reel and Anna McGoldrick having enjoyed acclaim over the years.

=Sport= The local Gaelic Athletic Association club, Castleblayney Faughs, was founded in November 1905 and holds the most Senior County Club Championship titles in the country.

Education

The town has two second level schools, Our Lady's Castleblayney and Castleblayney College. The latter is a co-educational school with plans for a new € 5 million extension. Our Lady's, a Catholic school, is one of the top basketball schools in the country and has won many national titles.

ee also

* List of towns in the Republic of Ireland
* Market Houses in the Republic of Ireland