African fat-tailed gecko

Taxobox
name = African Fat-tailed Gecko

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image_width = 250px
regnum = Animalia
phylum = Chordata
classis = Reptilia
ordo = Squamata
subordo = Sauria
familia = Eublepharidae
genus = Hemitheconyx
species = "H. caudicinctus"
binomial = "Hemitheconyx caudicinctus"
very easy to breedbinomial_authority = Duméril, 1851

"Hemitheconyx caudicinctus", commonly known as the African Fat-tailed Gecko, is a nocturnal, ground-dwelling gecko.

The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).

The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place.

The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 20 years. The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.

The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.

Housing

For a single or pair of fat tail geckos, a 10 gallon terrarium with a lid will be ample room. Males shouldn't be put together, than a 20 long terrarium would be required with at least 3-4 hiding places. All glass cages work best with fat tails, melamine and wood can peel and rot due to the higher humidity requirements for these geckos. Melamine should only be used with desert set-up with little to no humidity. Males are to be kept separate due to fighting over females. Up to 5 females can be held in the same cage as 1 male.

Substrate & Décor

Fat Tail Geckos come from hot and humid areas which should be re-created in a captive environment. Loose substrates should "never" be used, including wood chips or sand, especially Calci- sand. Despite what the package says, Calci- sand is virtually impossible to completely digest. Loose substrates can be ingested and cause impaction, which is almost always fatal. Crickets may also burrow into wood chips and attempt to lay eggs. Instead of loose substrates, repti- carpet, newspaper, paper towels, slate rock (for a more natural look), or non- adhesive cabinet liner makes a safer substrate, and is easy to clean.

For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. A well-planted vivarium will provide a more natural habitat for the gecko, while also being more visually appealing. Live plants will also help with the humidity levels and if you use some broad-leafed succulents may also provide shelter for the gecko. While they are a bit more care intensive than fake plants, live plants are well worth the effort involved. Be sure to research what plants are safe to use with reptiles as many plant may be poisonous to the animal.

Be careful when placing heavier objects into the enclosure, if a loose substrate is used. Fat Tail geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.

Heating & Lighting

The most economical and simple way to add heat and light into your vivarium is to use a single incandescent spot lamp. Wattage will depend on the size and height on the terrarium. This should be on for 12-14 hours a day and should be set on a timer. During the day time the temperature should be around 80ºF at the cool end, and 85-90ºF under the basking spot. Once the light goes out, the temperature should be an overall 74-78ºF. It is often enough to just let the vivarium go down to room temperature. However, the temperature should be monitored with a thermometer and if it drops below 65ºF, some form of background heating will be required. Background heat can be added with a low-power infrared bulb. Lower power heat mats are also useful to provide a constant heat source, and almost all reptiles beneifit from belly heat.

Reptiles cannot sense heat very well on their bellies. Heat rocks should never be used, as they can become too hot and burn your reptile.

Feeding & Drinking

It is important that water is available at all times. Fat Tail Geckos are native to West Africa where the humidity is high. They will often drink from water droplets on logs and plants, but will also drink from standing water regularly. A shallow water dish which is hard to tip over and easy to clean is ideal. It is also an idea to have a bowl which does not have small crevices and cracks in it, which mould can build up in, and small insects can hide in.

Fat tail geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. Meal worms, wax worms, phoenix worms and crickets are all suitable food items. However certain foods such as meal worms and wax worms should be limited. It is important that the food you give your gecko is as highly nutritious as possible. Gut-loading and dusting crickets will help ensure your geckos health.

Hatchling or juvenile fat tail geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 8-12 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko's mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium:Phosphorus supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas. MediVet Repton, 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorus is a good product to use.

Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.

Pinky mice can also be offered to breeding females every week, this will help build up fat reserves quickly after the laying of her eggs. They can also be dipped in calcium dust to help maintain healthy eggs.

When feeding a gecko you have to load up their food (at least 24 hours prior to feeding them) with, for crickets and locusts, protein (usually in the form of fish flakes) and moisture + vitamins(often in the form of a piece of fresh fruit). This saves having too much food in the cricket keeper and saves water getting sloshed around. Waxworms should be given a piece of natural honeycomb.

References