- Filet lace
Citation maintenance. Please you see. Any concerns? Please . Filet lace (also known as Embroidery on Knotted Net, Lacis, Filet Brodé and Poinct Conté) is a Needle lace created bydarning on a ground of knotted net or netting.History
Filet lace is a form of decorative netting and as such can be presumed to have derived at some point from the netmaking that a fishing community would require.
If we agree that the latin word "filatorium" (normally translated as "Network") is being used to describe Filet lace then Jourdain (1904) quotes a reference to Exeter Cathedral possessing four pieces of Filet lace in
1327 . Ingram (1922) states that there was a "cushion of net-work inSt. Paul's Cathedral so ["sic"] early as1295 ."More evidence comes from the publication of a pattern book by
Federico de Vinciolo in 1587 which contains approximately 60 patterns which are suitable for Filet lace.Technique
As mentioned above Filet lace is created on a ground of knotted net. That ground can either be made by the
lace maker or as of 2005 purchased commercially in either handmade or machine-made varieties.Making the net by hand with a netting shuttle / needle and a gauge involves anchoring the piece, using either a heavy cushion (which Carità (1909) recommends be made of lead) or a stirrup around the workers foot. Having a secure anchor against which to maintain tension a square net is made starting from one corner and adding a new mesh on each row until the desired size is reached, then by decreasing. The individual meshes are formed on a gauge which helps ensure a uniform size and are created by knotting to a loop in the previous round.
The net to be worked on is then stretched taut on a frame and the decorative stitches applied.
Many designs involve blocking out the main design in
linen stitch , indeed some designs consist entirely of linen stitch. This creates solid and open areas on the piece. Open areas in the design can then be decorated using a variety of other stiches.Filet Lace is typically created in a single color of thread, usually white or ecru, but many countries have used colors.
References
* Carità (1909). "Lacis". Sampson Low, Marston & Co.
* Th. de Dillmont (1923). "Filet-Guipure". Mulhouse (Frankreich)
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* Vinciolo, Federico (1587). "Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts"
* Quinault, Marie-Jo (December 2003). "Filet Lace: Introduction to the Linen Stitch ISBN 1-4120-1549-9 102 pages"External links
* [http://www.museocaprai.it/en/tecnica_Filet.htm Filet Lace - Virtual Museum of Textile Arts]
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* cite web | url=http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/dmc_guip_1.pdf | title=Filet-Guipure (Part 1) | work=Filet-Guipure [Filet Lace] , Th de Dillmont, 1923 | accessmonthday=June 2 | accessyear=2005
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